by Bev Shimmin

Accent lights illuminate special features in a room, such as artwork, architectural details and furnishings. This creates visual interest and drama in the space. When planning a lighting scheme, you should plan the accent lighting first. Next, identify task lighting. Then if additional light is needed, more fixtures can be added for general illumination.

An accent creates a bright shaft of light that sets the object apart from its surroundings. To achieve this separation, you need to control the intensity and size of the light beam.

Design Factors

To create good accents, you manipulate four design factors: beam spread, aiming angle, distance between fixture and object and light intensity. If getting the right effect is critical, as it often is with high-end homes and commercial buildings, you should hire a lighting designer. The designer’s knowledge and experience will pay off.

That doesn’t mean that modest homes and smaller commercial buildings can’t take advantage of accent lighting. With an understanding of the basic design factors, you can add visual interest with a minimal investment.

Beam Spread – Ideally, the light beam should cover the entire object, but only the object. If the beam diameter is larger than the object, it will shine on the wall, diverting attention from the object. Light from a directional lamp shines in a cone shape. The angle of the cone is called the beam spread. A flood light has a wider angle than a spotlight. Manufacturers publish the beam spread of each lamp in their catalogs.

Aiming Angle – The center of the light beam should be between 25° and 35° from the vertical plane of the work. (Directly above would be 0°.) A more acute aiming angle, for example 15°, would reduce reflections from glass covered art or create more depth-defining shadows on a textured object.

Distance – Distance affects the size of the beam diameter and the intensity of the light. A short distance between the fixture and object means a smaller diameter and more intensity. As you move the fixture farther away, the beam diameter increases and the light intensity decreases.

Light Intensity – For a soft accent, the cone of light needs to be about three times brighter than the background (ambient) light. A sharp accent requires about five times more light. The light output of directional lights (given in units called candelas) appears in lamp catalogs.

Design

A lighting designer would first select a beam diameter that works for a specific object and work backwards to make the lamp selection. A stunning architectural detail, such as a fireplace, built–in shelves or cabinets, would be a feature worthy of accenting. Like a designer, you can work in reverse from these known features to the types and locations of the lamps needed.

In other cases, you may not have enough information about the object. For example, large walls will probably attract a painting sooner or later. Without knowing the size you can’t choose the perfect lamp. However, you can place a fixture with an adjustable fixture holder. When the occupants hang their painting, they can select a lamp that gives the proper beam diameter.

Lamps

For performance, low voltage lamps can’t be beat. These are the small lamps with two pins at the base. Tungsten halogen lamps are the most efficient type of low voltage light source. They produce a crisp, white light. If you want a “warmer” look, put them on a dimmer control. MR-16s are the most popular low voltage lamps, because they are small and offer a wide selection of beam spreads. The lamps can last for up to 4,000 hours. On the other hand, low voltage systems require transformers and the cost is relatively high.

Line voltage PAR (parabolic reflector) lamps are less expensive and readily available. They offer a limited number of beam spreads. The standard screw base fits virtually all track lights and recessed fixtures. Tungsten halogen PARs offer 30 to 50 percent energy savings over standard reflector (R) lamps. Low cost and flexibility make PAR lamps a good choice for situations where uncertainties prevent specific design solutions.

Compact fluorescent lamps don’t offer the tight beam control needed for accent lighting. This is true even if they use a reflector. However, compacts work well for a wall washing effect.

Fixtures

For accent lighting, the lamp does all the important work. The fixture merely holds the lamp, positions it correctly and supplies the power. In a few situations, an eye-catching designer track head blends perfectly with the architecture. In most cases, you’ll want a recessed fixture that’s inconspicuous, so it doesn’t divert attention from the object.

Track lights offer tremendous flexibility. They can be recessed, concealed, surface-mounted or suspended. Or, a single track head can be mounted on a canopy.

Recessed fixtures with adjustable lamp holders are flexible and unobtrusive. The lamp should be located inside the fixture so it’s not visible from normal viewing angles. The lamp angle should be easy to adjust from 0° (straight down) to at least 35°. Horizontally, it should turn 358° from side to side. The adjustability of a certain fixture may depend on the size of the lamp, so it’s best to pick the lamp first. The fixture also should have a lock down screw to prevent it from being bumped out of alignment when the lamp is replaced.

Avoid eyeball fixtures, because they create glare and don’t have the range of movement of the fully recessed adjustable.

—Bev Shimmin is the residential lighting specialist at the Lighting Design Lab in Seattle, Washington.